Italian Summer Part Two: The Amalfi Coast
I am well aware that the Amalfi Coast needs zero introduction, by virtue of the views and birds-eye pasta spreads that have almost certainly been dominating your Instagram feed (if your ‘following’ list resembles mine in any manner). After a, frankly, anxiety-maxing drive to our Airbnb in Ravello (click here for some money off your first stay if you’re planning your next getaway), we were rewarded over the following couple of days with the best spaghetti vongole of our lives, a caprese salad overdose and postcard worthy townscapes that my photos below, nor even Emily Ratajkowski’s vacation photos cannot fully do justice (it is really that beautiful over there).
Driving from Puglia to Ravello.
On our first night we dined at Hotel Villa Maria after seeing some great reviews online- the food ended up being disappointing but it was still a damn pretty place to eat at.
Dress is from Bimba Y Lola.
Mornings at our Airbnb
. My favourite part of the listing, other than the host’s cat who could come by, were the rows of lemon trees (amongst other fruits) out front that our host let us pick from at our leisure. Amalfi lemons are huge
, and not actually very sour but aromatic in a lovely way- for breakfast I’d have toast with honey and lemon juice on top and it was delicious.
I’m so glad we chose Ravello as our home base on the coast (as opposed to Positano or Amalfi), as it felt more quiet and less touristic. If you enjoy classical music, Ravello is famous for their concerts as the artistic hub of the Amalfi Coast (we heard orchestras practicing as we walked home in the moonlight (see below), which was almost too perfect given the rustic romanticism of the place. I don’t have any great photos of the meal, but Mimi’s Pizzeria was an amazing dinner spot in the town.
There was also the cool Auditorium Oscar Niemeyer around the corner from our place.
Sunseekers at Amalfi.
An important note: If you’re travelling to and around the coast, I’d recommend doing it on Vespa- some of the roads are very narrow and the experience is not for the faint of heart given you will be sharing them with some large (travel bus large, I kid you not) and fast vehicles. There’s also a bus that stops at the various destinations but the trip back at the end of the day is a pain, when most people return back to their accommodation at around the same time and it took a few busses before we managed to squeeze on one.
For one of our lunches, we caught at boat at Amalfi and ate at Da Teresa
, which hides in a secluded cove and has its own spread of umbrellas and deck chairs for you to better digest the aforementioned best spaghetti vongole ever
post-meal. Try and eat earlier so you have a better chance of snagging a chair/umbrella afterwards.
Positano. On our last day on the coast, I booked us spots on a shared boat tour to Capri via Positano Boats
– I would highly recommend this for anyone looking to island hop/ hop in the ocean but sans private yacht at your disposal (a problem I share), and the group wasn’t very large so we still had a bit of privacy.
These steps were a pain to climb up at the end of the day, but beautiful nonetheless.
We spent only a few hours on Capri, but had another amazing meal at Pullali wine bar
, which sits in the clock tower thankfully secluded from the tourist-heavy Piazza Umberto I. Though Da Teresa’s spaghetti vongole was amazing, we had the undisputed best pasta of the entire trip (!) here, and it was the zucchini spaghetti…just thinking about it is making me melt. If you’re going solo/ in a pair, book ahead and request the balcony table.
Next chapter will be on Naples. Thanks for tuning in xx