Italian Summer Part Three: Naples, Tivoli and Rome
Below, you’ll find the belated but final instalment of my summer film diaries. I wish I took more photos in Naples, Tivoli and Rome (I exhausted most of the film I brought with me in the South) but looking back at these still did the job of making me crave a good plate of pasta and an espresso to follow.
Naples is severely underrated. A lot of people will warn you about the city- mention its crime, reckless drivers and the like- and I’m not one to refute those warnings as I was only there for a few days. It is grittier than any of the other places we visited, and driving within the city would have by far been the most terrifying (if we had even chosen to do it, save driving in, finding a garage, and driving out). But its also very charming in its own way, and I don’t think a few days gave us enough time to explore it. Pompeii was very exciting for me (I was pumped up from the History Channel videos I watched before the trip) but it was also very very hot- still worth going though.
We had an amazing pizza dinner (despite service that is notorious and tolerated because of how good the food is) at Gino Sorbillo, the best coffees at Intra Moenia, great cocktails in Chiaia.
Aside from Pompeii, if you ever visit Naples you have to see the Cappella Sansevero- the chapel housing The Veiled Christ. I could have stayed in there for hours.
Before heading into Rome, we spent a night in Tivoli. You’ve probably seen the Villa d’Este in the Lizzie McGuire movie (that’s how I
knew about it), and its even more beautiful in real life. We had dinner at Sbilla (right next to the Temple of Vesta, which dates back to 1st Century BC) overlooking the town (and at least one waterfall, as you do) and it was magical. We stayed at this gem of a B&B
, which was reasonably priced, had the loveliest staff, and had three gelato spots in a 100m proximity. I wish I got more photos but sadly I only have the weird one above.
And finally, Rome.
We knew what we were getting into, visiting Rome in July. And it was totally worth it. I didn’t end up seeing the Colosseum (though we did drive past it at least 3 times a day) but I’ll save it for our next visit. I do highly recommend seeing Saint Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museums (the blurry photo above is what it actually feels like to be in there considering how many people were shuffling along the corridors) and Pantheon- we were lucky enough to chance upon a Basquiat exhibition that was in town as well. The Trevi Fountain was insanely packed (go at a weird time, which also applies to the Spanish Steps). We loved the MAXXI Museum as well, and could have spent the whole day in there.
Food (and make reservations): Armando Al Pantheon, Roscioli’s, Tram Tram, Da Enzo
Gelato: Ciampini, Giolitti
Drinks: Litro, Cul De Sac (negronis became our summer staple cocktail).
Walk around Trastevere- the streets are so beautiful and filled with bookstores and vintage shops.
We stayed at a lovely Airbnb
(my favourite from the trip). If you’re thinking of booking your first stay, you can get a little money off your booking by clicking here
I hope you enjoyed my photos from Italy- sorry they trickled in so slowly. Hope you all have a lovely weekend!